Two decades ago, Damera Yakamma faced tragedy when her husband, a cotton farmer, took his life due to mounting debts. Left to manage their land, Yakamma opted for organic farming, supported by a non-profit in Telangana.
“We benefited from lower costs, better health, and premium prices,” Yakamma shared. However, they lost their organic certification in 2015 due to the widespread use of genetically modified BT cotton. Despite this, they persisted in sustainable practices to meet the rising demand for eco-friendly cotton.
In 2020, sustainable cotton comprised nearly 20% of the global supply, with a 20% annual demand increase. With six million farmers cultivating cotton in India, efforts to promote sustainability face challenges. Farmers like Yakamma, striving for independent sustainable cultivation, struggle to secure fair prices in the market.
The movement for ethical cotton production in India is gaining momentum, prompting calls for farmers to receive a larger share of benefits. Experts advocate for increased government and brand support to help farmers cope with climate stress.
Despite the prevalence of BT seeds, Yakamma and others continued natural cultivation, avoiding costly pesticides. However, lacking a sustainability certificate, they struggle to command premium prices, facing exploitation by traders offering lower than the government-fixed price.
To support such farmers, international organizations like Better Cotton Initiative and Fairtrade establish quality standards and licensing models. These initiatives aim to advance sustainable practices, ensure ethical cotton processing, and connect producers with brands seeking greener sourcing.
Challenges persist, notably the proliferation of chemical pesticides. Strengthening India’s legal framework on pesticide management is crucial, with the aggressive promotion of unregistered pesticides posing a threat. Climate change exacerbates financial strain on farmers, pushing them to informal lenders charging exorbitant interest rates.
In this complex landscape, efforts to promote sustainable cotton face hurdles, emphasizing the need for comprehensive support to empower farmers and create a truly ethical and sustainable cotton industry in India.
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